Κυριακή 27 Μαρτίου 2011
Τρίτη 22 Μαρτίου 2011
History of Karl Lagerfeld
Born in Hamburg in 1938, Karl Lagerfeld emigrated to Paris at the age of 14. He was to go on to become one of the most celebrated designers this century has seen.
In 1955, at the age of just 17, Lagerfeld was awarded a position at Pierre Balmain, after winning a competition sponsored by the International Wool Secretariat (the coat he had designed for the contest was later put into production by Balmain). In 1958, he left to take up a job with Jean Patou, which gave him an invaluable knowledge of couture but apparently very little pleasure. After just one year, he quit to work as a freelance designer for such fashion houses as Krizia, Charles Jourdan and Valentino. By 1964, he had grown so disillusioned with the world of haute couture that he left Paris altogether to study art in Italy.
In 1967, Lagerfeld returned to fashion, joining Fendi as a design consultant. In the Seventies, however, his name was more closely associated with the house of Chloe, where he was given carte blanche to produce exquisite floaty and feminine ready-to-wear collections which claimed to rival contemporary couture. His 1972 Deco collection, which consisted of black and white prints and clever bias-cutting, brought him worldwide acclaim. He produced his last collection for Chloe - now designed by Phoebe Philo - in 1983 to move to Chanel (though he did return briefly in 1993, to replace outgoing designer Martine Sitbon).
At the same time as taking on the title of director of collections and ready-to-wear at Chanel, Lagerfeld launched his own-name label, now synonymous with strong tailoring, combining easy-to-wear cardigan jackets in his favourite bright colours and softly shaped knitwear to create what he describes as "intellectual sexiness". Meanwhile his designs for the super-chic French fashion house, a fusion of pre-war Chanel and contemporary trends, carried the label to the pinnacle of high fashion in the Eighties and Nineties. Notable moments of his career at Chanel include teaming the traditional box jacket with denim mini skirts in 1991, combining club-influenced black fishnet bodystockings with the traditional Chanel camellia placed cheekily over the breasts and matching hefty lace-up boots with flowing georgette skirts and leather jackets. By 1997, Vogue had crowned him the "unparalleled interpreter of the mood of the moment".
Despite moving from label to label, Lagerfeld has managed to retain a sense of his own style throughout his career. His success lies in an ability to make a bold statement and he is never afraid to try something new. He has also maintained a sense of humour throughout his designing that has produced such legendary pieces as a shower-dress, with beaded water streaming down the front; a car-dress with a radiator grille and fender, and a multitude of outstandingly eccentric hats, from armchairs to cream cakes, translating Chanel trademarks such as the quilted handbag into a range of seasonal must-haves, including the handbag earring, the handbag hat, the doll-sized shoulder bag, the quilted hip bag, the quilted Alice band and the outsize baguette bag.
Δευτέρα 21 Μαρτίου 2011
chanel history
The House of Chanel, more commonly known as Chanel, is a Parisian fashion house in France founded by Gabrielle Bonheur "Coco" Chanel. According to Forbes, the privately held House of Chanel is jointly owned by Alain Wertheimer and Gerard Wertheimer who are the grandsons of the early Chanel partner Pierre Wertheimer.
The company is owned by Luxottica. The perfume, accessory, and skin line divisions have been made public in recent years.
Founded in 1910, the small shop selling ladies headwear had moved to the upmarket Rue Cambon within a year. The house became especially famous with the elegant little black dress and its signature Chanel No. 5 fragrance - so called because she was given a set of five samples by the perfumeur Ernest Beaux. She had instructed him to create a fragarance that should be "All about scent and nothing about the bottle." Out of the five scents samples, she preferred No. 5. "It will bring me luck," she declared. Ernext Beaux also created four other perfumes for Chanel; the are the little known Bois d'Illes, No. 22, Cuir de Russie, and Gardenie. However, Gardenie has recently been re-released by the House in 2005 with international acclaim, a scent that fuses jasmine with musks.
Chanel revolutionized haute couture fashion by replacing the traditional corset with the comfort and casual elegance of simple suits and dresses. She introduced to the world her signature cardigan jacket in 1925 and signature “little black dress” in 1926, introducing a more sultry and seductive definition to “sexy.” She had numerous other major successes that changed the fashion industry including the ever popular "'Chanel suit'", an elegant creation composed of a knee-length skirt and trim, boxy jacket, traditionally made of wooven wool with black sewing trim and gold buttons, worn with large costume-pearl necklaces. Elite women of high socities around the world began to flock to the now legendary Rue Cambon boutique to commission couture outfits from her. The House of Chanel became an icon of elegance and from then on, the name “Chanel” became synonymous to elegance, wealth, and elitism, as well as the ultimate sign of French high class, la coquettrie.
After Chanel No. 5 was launched in 1921, Coco Chanel's fashions became even more well-known and were purchased by the high flyers of London and Paris society alike. Chanel took to living at the Ritz Paris, and her suite of residence has become famous and is now named the "Coco Chanel Suite."
Chanel is also known for its quilted fabric which also has a "secret" quilting pattern sewn at the back to keep the material strong. This material is used for clothing and accessories alike. During the early 1970s London socialite millionairess Diane Boulting-Casserley Vandelli was ambassador to the brand, making it ever more popular amongst the European jet-set and upper classes. The brand is now headed by German-born designer Karl Lagerfeld, who had previously designed for the House of Fendi, where his most memorable achievement was the creation of the signature "FF" logo print (referred to as Zucca) commonly used on handbags.
The Coco Chanel Era
Coco Chanel, founder of the House of Chanel, began her fashion career in 1910. She heralded new designs and revolutionized the fashion industry by going “back to basics,” incorporating elegance, class, and originality. Under her tight reign from 1910-1971, Coco Chanel held the title as ‘Chief Designer’ until her death on January 10, 1971.
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1910-1932
In 1910, Chanel opens a shop, under the name of ‘Chanel Modes’ at 21 rue Cambon in Paris, to create hats. Her hats were worn by famous French actresses which helped establish her reputation. Chanel introduced in 1913 women’s sportswear at her new boutique in Deauville, France. Her line of jersey clothes changed not only women’s relationships with their bodies, but also with their way of life, or the French savoir vivre. It became an immediate success.
Her fashion became known in 1915 throughout France that prioritized freedom of movement by passing ostentatious and useless things in her designs. She affirmed the House’s style of authentic and naturally seductive with fluid and comfortable lines. She then opened her first couture house in Biarritz, France to introduce her other fashion lines.
1921 saw the introduction of the first Chanel perfume, No. 5. It was greeted internationally by high society ladies as their choice when going out during the night. “La Société des Parfums Chanel’’ was founded in 1924 to produce and sell perfumes and beauty products, after the critically acclaimed No. 5, a perfume that commands the highest sales in history.
1924 also greeted the first Chanel costume jewelry collection that Harper’s Bazzar greeted as “one of the most revolutionary designs of our time.”
In 1928, Chanel introduced the ‘little black dress,’ greeted by Vogue as the ‘new uniform of the modern woman.’ That same year, Chanel introduced the classic tweed. Inspired by visits to Scotland with the Duke of Westminster, Chanel was inspired and created her first tweed suits.
Chanel premiered a fabulous exhibition of fine jewelry in 1932 dedicated to the diamond, featuring designs which became the talk of the town for their simplicity and originality. Several of the pieces, including the ‘Comet’ and ‘Fountain’ necklaces were re-introduced by Chanel in 1993.
1935-1981
Chanel reached the peak of her fame in 1935 when she employed 4,000 workers and owned numerous buildings throughout France. In 1939, she retired from fashion design and closed her popular couture house, prompting protests from New York high society to the Parisian aristocracy. Only her perfumes and accessories were sold at Chanel’s boutiques.
Coming out of fashion retirement at the age of 71, Chanel re-opened the couture house. Her first show received international acclaim, with her signature jersey suit being introduced that bore her favorite number: 5. In 1955, Chanel introduced the quilted bag with the shoulder strap, a bag that shook the fashion world. It became so popular the first year, she had to decline numerous requests due to the lack of time to painstakingly manufacture each one by her skilled artisans. That same year, Chanel launched her first eau de toilette for men, Pour Monsieur.
In 1957 at the Fashion Awards in Dallas, Chanel and her Spring collection received the Fashion Oscar. The fashion world applauded her as the ‘most influential designer of the twentieth century.’
After dozens of other internationally acclaimed collections, Chanel introduced in 1970 a new perfume by the name of No. 19, after her birthday date. On January 10, 1971, Coco Chanel died, ending an era of revolutionary fashion that would still be the classic model fashion designers today find inspiration in. Her posthumous Spring collection enjoyed considerable success.
However, her influence did not pass with her death. Other posthumous projects came to light a few years. In 1974, the House of Chanel launched Cristalle eau de toilette, which was in the workings when Coco Chanel was alive. 1978 saw the launch of the first non-couture, prêt-à-porter line and worldwide distribution of accessories. In 1981, Chanel launched a new eau de toilette for men, Antaeus.
The Iconic Logo
The Chanel logo is an overlapping double 'C' - one facing forward and the other facing backward. This comes from the name Coco Chanel."Coco" is the nickname frequently used by Chanel founder, Gabrielle Chanel. The logo was not trademarked until during the first openings of Chanel stores. Chanel is currently trying to deal with their logo being illegally used on cheaper goods, especially on fake handbags. Countries said to be producing great numbers of fake Chanel handbags are Vietnam, Thailand and China. An authentic Chanel handbag retails for around $1500, while fakes usually cost around $60, creating a demand for the signature style at a cheaper price.
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