history of fashion(18th century)

With the death of Louis XIV and the coronation of Louis XV in 1715 , a smart and refined style called "rococo"
has blossomed.Thought the term rococo was later used in the nineteenth century in a derogatory sense,suggesting excess and frivolity,today it refers to a general artistic style emblematic of harmonious French culture.The culture responsible for the rococo style was characterized by the pursuit of personal pleasure.
Sinse that pursuit naturally included clothing,it,too, was soon elevated to the realm of rt.Thought France was already an acknowledged leader of fashion during the reign of Louis XIV,the rococo period confirmed the country's reputation as the leader o women's fashion worldwide.After the iitial popularity of rococo,clothing styles veered off in two diametrically opposed fashion directions,one involving a fantastic conceit of artificial aesthetics,and the oter a desire to return to nature.The French Revolution in 1789 modernized many aspects of society and brought a clear shift in clothing styles from decorative rococo to the more simple dress of neoclassicism.This radical change in clothing styles,a phenomenon unique in the history of fashion,is a reflection of the momentous upheavals in the social values of the period.

(photo:http://www.google.gr/imgres?imgurl=http://image.absoluteastronomy.com/images/encyclopediaimages/1/17/1793-1778-contrast-wholeplate-lowq.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.absoluteastronomy.com/topics/1750-1795_in_fashion&usg=__eYu0e-Nqp_uWS957B2wLO5p-MaY=&h=225&w=350&sz=30&hl=el&start=0&zoom=1&tbnid=XWF-WYGAUO3zVM:&tbnh=131&tbnw=204&ei=bgbXTYenM8WUswa0pL36DA&prev=/search%3Fq%3D18th%2Bcentury%2Bof%2Bfashion%26um%3D1%26hl%3Del%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26sa%3DN%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:el:official%26biw%3D1280%26bih%3D698%26tbm%3Disch&um=1&itbs=1&iact=hc&vpx=144&vpy=394&dur=574&hovh=180&hovw=280&tx=187&ty=124&sqi=2&page=1&ndsp=19&ved=1t:429,r:14,s:0)

Zika Ascher: textile designer

In the long trandition of artists turning fabric designers,such as Duffy and Costeu,the unmistakable sketches of Herry Moore and applied to silk by Zika Ascher.One of these sketches(picture A)witch combines screen printing with batik painting ,was selected for use by Nina Ricci .When Vogue asked in 1962,"Which comes first,the chicken or the egg?The fabric or the fashion?it could have had Asche in mind.His innovative approach to fabrics revolutionized fashion from the 1940s.He started his own production company and silk-screen print works in London in 1942.In 1948 he approached artists such as Moore and Herri Matisse to design prints.
His own anventive approach to textiles acted as a catalyst for fashion designers of that time:in 1952 his highly original large-scale floral prints were used by Dior and Schiaparelli,and in 1957 his shaggy mohair inspired Castillo to create huge enveloping coats.




photo a: http://www.google.gr/imgres?imgurl=https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAhW8H0GcWVaEH3dKlOW-uwYTfo7nYzKIsFlfxPVUQPjW95wBBJRY8I1WX1SjlecAcLrwVnQvmM6-N5PWyOyJaVA_oL9rMy2HLVcJBGet9WmO9oPDCRLsIkQUG8p_EX_E_nvI2pN9wXQ7c/s320/artist+scarves+collage.jpg&imgrefurl=http://crewalamode.blogspot.com/2010/09/ascher.html&usg=__KkuIsAQyqqWGFyrQ-Z75bpT1Oqg=&h=214&w=320&sz=38&hl=el&start=28&zoom=1&tbnid=Lq-jC9gPQ-8XRM:&tbnh=133&tbnw=183&ei=8eC9Tfj8KMz_4Abqk-XYBQ&prev=/search%3Fq%3DZika%2BAscher%26hl%3Del%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:el:official%26biw%3D1280%26bih%3D752%26site%3Dsearch%26tbm%3Disch0%2C912&um=1&itbs=1&iact=hc&vpx=450&vpy=282&dur=2812&hovh=171&hovw=256&tx=166&ty=84&page=2&ndsp=30&ved=1t:429,r:25,s:28&biw=1280&bih=752
photo b :http://www.google.gr/imgres?imgurl=https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYGYe4G7TniWnm1KS2a9O84Xd6N44hA_1f7eo-MHm9tvBz9toS003gosIfmI8qCPjtlMhtqwCITVAo7qt6VAieSNiIFEqMFCcPEYrkgOGriJfCYHjqL_7__E3T-020O0ASn531hIshw3wq/s1600/Zika+Ascher+NPG.jpg&imgrefurl=http://raceofstyle.blogspot.com/2010/09/ascher-studio-fabrics.html&usg=__nlVp5m_Rz2BOE4Yia5wpzdpIWd0=&h=498&w=480&sz=145&hl=el&start=0&zoom=1&tbnid=TdXjaFjBt2lAFM:&tbnh=101&tbnw=97&ei=oua9Tc_9FMWu8gP4nfHEBg&prev=/search%3Fq%3DZika%2BAscher%26um%3D1%26hl%3Del%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26sa%3DN%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:el:official%26biw%3D1280%26bih%3D752%26tbm%3Disch&um=1&itbs=1&iact=rc&dur=437&page=1&ndsp=28&ved=1t:429,r:15,s:0&tx=67&ty=55

Greta Garbo: -ICON-

(Beautiful casula portrait of GRETA GARBO taken by her friend and world class photographer Cecil Beaton in 1946.)

Garbo called the greatest star of all.Beaton(photographer) wrote on his subject :Perhaps no other person has had such an influance on the appearance of a whole generation..the secret of her appeal seems to lie in an elusive and haunting sensitivity.Garbo has created a style in fashion which is concerned with her individual self. Garbo arrived in Hollywood aged nineteen in the entourage of Mauritz Stilla from Sweden.Signed up by Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer,she went on to star in Queen Christina,Camille and Anna Karenina,dressed by Adrian.Famed as a recluse, she said in 1932,

"I AM AWKWARD,SHY ,AFRAID,NERVOUS AND SELF-CONSCIOUS ABOUT MY ENGLISH.THAT IS WHY I BUILT A WALL OF REPRESSION ABOUT MY SELF AND LIVED BEHIND IT "

The director George Cukor said that reserved"HER REAL SENSUOUSNESS FROM THE CAMERA"


(photo:http://www.google.gr/imgres?imgurl=http://images.npg.org.uk/790_500/0/1/mw73801.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portraitLarge/mw73801/Greta-Garbo-Greta-Lovisa-Gustafsson&usg=__Az651C5wLzzN7KIpmaJ9dMkxGbk=&h=500&w=500&sz=48&hl=el&start=0&zoom=0&tbnid=NFNexwM3eYERIM:&tbnh=130&tbnw=130&ei=xY-8TfjgFcmh8QPssL3EBg&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dgreta%2Bgarbo%2Bby%2BCecil%2BBeaton%26um%3D1%26hl%3Del%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:el:official%26biw%3D1280%26bih%3D752%26tbm%3Disch&um=1&itbs=1&iact=rc&dur=495&page=1&ndsp=28&ved=1t:429,r:20,s:0&tx=35&ty=51)